Sir Henry Craik, K.C.B., M.P., contributes an article to the "Comhill Review" of June on his impression of the Sudan. The following is the account of his journey :—

At Cairo one who has a further goal in view may ho forgiven for fancying himself in a ratiier shabby banlieue of Paris or in a mediocre Brussels. In the background, hidden away in noisome festering alleys, and in the native bazaar —partly arranged for tourist consumption there is the colouring of the East; but it is all debased and vulgarised, and foul with the scum of the levant. As an Eastern city, it is no more than a pinchbeck imitation. As a city of gaiety or brightness, it is only tenth rate, and in the greed that looks out of its eyes it tells of its own degradation. Tn its jostling crowds, in its babel of mixed tongues, in the endless rogueries of its streets, in its eagerness to banish all glimpses of light and airiness, and to build upon every available inch of space, it tells its own story. Standing as it does at the end of the West, and before the beginning of the East, it has no doubt its place in the general, economy of things. Many thijik they like itf anil fancy they see Egypt as they sit on the terrace of Shepheard's Hotel ; a few do find it pleasant enough as a place of residence; but none in all the fermenting crowd would care to call Cairo his home. Doubtless it was much the same in the days of the Ptolemys, and will remain the same to the end of time. If it ever had an individuality of its own, it has long been botched, and patched, and painted ont of all recognition. It is now a haggard bedlam bedizened with ribbons and rouge ; and at the moment we were there its tawdry finery was smirched by a leaden sky, a chilling north wind and a perpetual drizzle.

Seven miles out, along the road constructed in a week or two by the lordly extravagance of Ismail for the Empress of the French in 1869, we reach the open stretches of the desert and the 'Royal site' of the Pyramids and the unsurpassed wonder of the Sphinx. But the tourists buzz about them like a swarm of flies ; a crowd of Hebrew motorists do their best to vulgarise them; and a busy photographer takes them for the background of groups of globetrotters mounted on bedraggled camels.

A night's journey brings us to Luxor, where antiquity is still supreme, and does its best to mock the self-assertiveness of the modern crowd. But as we hurry through it, only Cook and his devotees are in evidence; the uniformed hotel waiters thrust aside the native : even the temples seem to be debased into the vulgarity of an exhibition, and they are dwarfed by a huge new hotel. The breath of the wind that has blown across the desert-unchanged since time began-comes to us only if we seek it, and there are few who take the trouble to do so. To many of the pilgrims, Karnak may be much ; Thebes may be more than a name ; but to most we fear the dominant question is which is the lest hotel, and where is the tourist to find, with least troubles, and in combination with those amusements which are his soul's paradise, a resting-place where he may most freely gossip about the friends and criticise the strangers whom he encounters in the mob.

We want to press further afield with all the haste we may, and a dismal railway journey, dusty, crowded, ill-arranged, carries us on past Assouan to Sliellal. We transfer ourselves from the train, in which we have been cooped up till our very souls are crushed in dust, into the cool of a cloudless moonlight sky, on to a landing-place filled with a crowd as different as possible from that we left at Luxor. The bright electric lights of the little steamboat of the Sudan Government shine brilliantly, and seem to welcome "us to another world. We have left behind us the crowds at Assouan : the train has rumbled and groaned and creaked agonisingly over the few miles behind that gnal of the ordinary tourist ; and the little steamer receives a very attenuated band into its trim and well-arranged recesses. Those who are here mean business, andcome forsomething else than to spend a week or two in laborious idleness, and see what they are told they ought to see, Others there are who are making their way to Haifa by the more luxurious means of the excursion steamers, who have no need to go post haste, and who have deserted—and wisely deserted—the railway after Luxor. We slmll see them again, and perhaps envy them their surroundings. But from now the little company is one that does not need, and does not seek, the help of tourist agents.

It is almost a relief to find that the Government steamer contains nothing of what is thought to be 'luxurious accommodation,' as understood by the tourist world. Clean, and sufficiently roomy-cabins, furnished with that absolute simplicity which is the essential of comfort an absence of all crowding ; plain fare which satisfies, and does not cloy, the appetite ; above all, quiet and rest from the eternal restless idleness of the tourist and the fussy assiduity of his toots—if these cannot satisfy us, we are hard to please. The steamer, with the barge or sandal lashed to its side, holds its way steadily during the night and, strangely enough, the instinctive skill of the rai»seems to lie able -to steer her without aid even from the moon. It would be difficult to resist the invitation of the early dawn to come out on deck, and when we emerge from our cabins to get the first breath-of air, and to taste the delights of matutinal tobacco, we are gliding through the desert with a little fringe ut green on either side ; an occasional temple looking grijuly out upon the river; lines of late palms to mark the course of the stream which seems occasiually to swell into the proportions of a lake ; and before we have gone many miles we are in the midst of hare rocky hills, which sometimes skirt the hank and give the Nile almost to aspect of a Scottish rock bound loch. The familiar strings of camels disappear, and in, their place we see the brightly mantled figures on donkey-back, picking their way lightly and easily over what seem from the vessel's deck to he impassable masses of rock, But one thing is always in evidence. The native hardly turns his head to look at the passing steamboat. He has become accustomed to the strange and uncouth monster that has penetrated into his grim rock and desert of yellow sand—penetrated into them, but left their spirit untouched—and his Eastern sense of dignity would feel itself debased if he allowed any symptom of curiosity or wonder to appear. As often as not he disappears behind an intervening rock as our boat glides by, and does not pause even for the few moments that would be spared by a bargee on the Thames to stare at the passing of an excursion steamer.

We have an awning to ward off the sun. The wind is still fiom the north, which makes the air retain its nip, although, as it is a following wind for us, it is refreshing only and not chilly. The Nile has not yet leurned, and we have had time to forget, the degradation of barrages and garish hotels and the snort of the railway engine. We are becoming familiar with its wide expanses, and the influence of its broad waters and its immeasurable setting of yellow desert sand is working into our blood. Surpassing, in its marvellous dignity, even the greatness of the unequalled works of man that have gathered along its course, the mightiest and strangest river on the globe is exerting its regal sovereignty over ns. And so wo creep on, a small speck on its broad bosom, past the fortified heights of Korusko, and past the wonders of Abou Simbel, for all that day and for another night, until at breakfast-time on die third day we see the minarets of the mosque of Haifa and its bright fringe of coloured buildings edging the bank on our left We draw up alongside its sloping shore ; a promiscuous crowd of Arabs in blue galabeahs seem to stir into a little life as we approach. A string of camels, kneeling in a cluster close by, crane their necks and snarl ; a few uniformed police come to inspect, us ; and walking across the plank that serves for a gangway, we are soon in the lively streets of Wadi Haifa. There is no excitement at our arrival—not so much as would greet the arrival of a boatload of excursionists at Margate ; here and there an Arab is quietly bowing and kneeling on the ground at prayer, undisturbed by our approach ; a few children tumble about, as happy as butterflies, oh the slopes ; and here we are at what less than a decade ago was the outpost of civilised occupation, object to over-recurring raids by the Khalifa's dervishes. Not ten years ago, as was recalled to us by one of those concerned, the English garrison lmd just finished a polo match when a horde of dervishes rushed the town. Had they been there an hour earlier, every officer in the plaire would have been at their mercy.

The train is not due to leave for some hours, and we have time to wander a little through the streets of Wadi Haifa. Fortunately the tourist is not much in evidence, and the Arab dealers have something else to do than to pester us with the trash which seems to have an irresistible attraction for the travelling Briton, but for which the use is undiscoverable by any sane man. They hardly trouble to stare at us as we pass through their busy groups, and the labourers at the Sakyalis heed us as little as do the patient oxen that look as if they hail been at their weary task since the days of the Pharaohs. The yard before the station is tenanted by a squatting crowd of Arab mat rons, copiously swathed, and only the appearance of a kodak has the effect of making them suddenly vanish from an instinctive dread of the evil eye.

By and by the train is ready. Each compartment has the names of its occupants written on the card inserted in its door ; no traveller goes beyond this point whose name and destination are not known. The Government railway is under good management, and were it not for the dread of the inevitable and benefrating sand, which even closed windows cannot withstand, the sleeping and dining-cars are models which we might well envy in England. Crowding would-lie intolerable in the heat, and we have each ample space : and to preserve us against the glare of the sun, there is a sort of wooden hood over each carriage, with an air space between it and the roof. The mails and the luggage are soon disposed of, and presently we are trundling smoothly and luxuriously across the desert—to accomplish in some six and-twenty hours what, only a decade ago, was a toilsome cnuiel journey of ton days, along a route that had been traversed in such guise long before history began.

It is surprising how soon wegrow accustomed to our new conditions, and accept them as a matter of course. For all we might know, the train might linve been passing over these sandy tracts for generations, and the strings of camels that now and then show themselves might be pictures out of some book of travels of another age. They look as unconscious of our existence as it we and they belonged to different worlds. We stop at an occasional station, where two or three rough wooden shanties show signs of life. Only very rarely does any station building actually exist The train pulls up. The occupants of the huts transact what business they have ; a horseman or two gallop up from some neighbouring village and give or receive some message. The engine takes in a little water, and we are off again across the endless sand whose monotony is broken only by an occasional mirage. The Atbara, Berber, Shendy—at all these there are abundant signs of life. The inspector and some of his officials, a medical officer or two, a few railway or telegraph constructors—all these surrounded by a motley crowd of Arabs of every age, have gathered from a wide circuit to meet the train. Its arrival is one of the events of the week, and we can imagine what it is to these sun-tanned and khaki-clad sentinels of Empire to watch the incursion of fresh faces flitting past the scene of their lonely labour. The look of patient watchfulness in their eyes, the strain of muscle in their lithe figures, the quiet decision of their tones—all tell us something of what their life must be. It is there we begin to read the inward meaning and interest of the Sudan. There we learn the story of the fight that is now being waged with the desert as month by month and year by year goes by—a fight that needs as much courage and even more patient endurance than an Atbara or an Omdnrman. The desert is a giant combatant, immeasurably cruel, but his resistance is being slowly and yet steadily sapped by heroes of whom no Gazette contains a record.

On we go till we touch the Nile again, and try in our luxurious ease to fancy what the sight of these waters must have been to those who had trudged wearily over the desert track in days, that are only just gone by. It is late on the afternoon of the second day that we catch sight of some of the buildings of Khartoum North, and we are presently steaming into what is the really European station of the capital of the Sudan.

CRICKET AT PORT SAID

LADIES OF PORT SAID v. PORT SAID C.C

On Saturday last an amusing cricket match was played on the International Sports Club Ground between the Ladies of Port Said and the P.S.C.C. The afternoon was perfect, and large number of visitors were present, amongst the number we noticed Mr. Cameron; Judge Einens, Canon and Misses Strange, Dixon Bey and many oteers.

Play began at 4.15, the ladies batting first. Mrs. Hayward and Mrs. Simpson went in together. Mrs. Hayward was bowled by nasty ball from Mr. Field. Mrs. Simpson batted well and ran with her usual energy, putting on a useful 15, before she was caught by Mr. Howe at square leg. The next two wickets went down for 2, but when Miss King came in, things began to cheer up, and by hard hitting and quick running she added 17 to the total, finally being stumped by the hall striking Mr. Broatch and knocking the wicket down before Miss King could get within the crease.

Miss Dixon, the captain, followed next, but was soon bowled by Dr. Cufley. Miss O'Connor came in, and played excellent cricket, her cuts beings quite a feature of the game. Miss Williams joined Miss O'Connor, and added 18 runs to the score. Miss Rodger did not have much luck, being stumped by Mr. Wallis after making 8.

The score now being 80, and two wickets to fall, Miss Dixon declared the innings, and at 6 o'clock, the men went in, Mr. Wallis taking 1st ball.

Mr. Wallis, after playing very freely, was bowled by Miss Rodger for 9 runs, Mr. Howe coming out with 4 runs. Dr. Cuffey next came in, and was soon joined by Dr. Hayward, these two making runs fast, and giving the field lots of work and the score being 60, both retired. Mr. Tweedie and Mr. Broatch also retired before long, and when the score was 86, the innings was declared closed and the game finished in favour of Port Said. Some notice must be taken of the excellent bowling of Miss O'Connor, which was very dangerous. Miss Cooper as wicket-keeper was very plucky, but stood rather too near the wicket, for fast howling.

The bowling of the men was not all that could be desired, and many easy catches were missed in the field, the left hand being found of little use, as compared to the right.

An excellent tea was provided by Tweedie, Mrs. Hayward, Miss Dixon, Simpson and Mrs. Cuffey.

Ladies.

Mrs. Hayward, b. Field – 1

Mrs. Simpson, c. Howe, b. Cuffey – 15

Miss Cooper, run out – 1

„ Faden, c. Tweedie, b. Cuffey – 1

„ King, st. Broatch – 17

„ Dixon, b. Cuffey – 1

„ O'Connor, not out. – 15

„ Williams, b. Field – 18

„ Rodger, st. Wallis b. Broatch – 3

Mrs. Cuffey, not out – 0

Miss Horner, did not bat – 0

Byes – 3

Wides – 5

Total – 80

P S.C.O.

Mr. Howe, b Miss O'Connor – 4

„ Wallis,, b Mi.ss Rodger – 9

Dr. Cuffey retired – 29

Dr. Hayward retired – 14

Mr. Brookes, st Miss Cooper, b. Mias

O'Connor – 0

„ Tweedie,. retired – 9

„ Field, b. Miss O'Connor – 0

„ Broatch, retired – 4

„ Chesman – 0

„ Durie did not bat – 0

Japt. Arinitage – 0

Byes – 11

Wides – 4

No balls – 2

86

The spinsters of the town of Clark, Dakota, have sent a petition to the city council asking the municipality to tax all single men under forty and chloroform all over that age.

IN RELIEVING ALL CATARRHAL DISEASES

CATARRH of the respiratory organs is a common aliment in Canada for at least two-thirds of the year.

This condition is no doubt caused by the long, severe winters experienced in this part of the continent.

Therefore, when Peruna was discovered by Canadian people to be a reliable remedy for these catarrhal diseases, it at once became a popular medicine, not only among individuals and in families, but in the great hospitals, where it was used as a preventative and relief in hundreds of cases.

Theseinstitutions do not hesitate to give their endorsement of the remedy which has been so helpful in the treatment of their poor and sick.

Among these institutions is that os the Sisters of Good Shepherd, who gave the following endorsement:

The Peruna Company, Columbus Ohio, Having used Peruna for the past few months, for our sick and poor, we are happy to say that it has given us great satisfaction.

The Sisters of the Good Shepherd, August 20, 1903. Montreal

After a continued use of the remedy, this institution has found no reason to change its good opinion of the remedy and expresses its satisfaction in the following terms: Montreal, Nov 7, 1903

We found Peruna a relief in several cases. We can say it is a good tonic and we are very thankful.

Sisters of the Good Shepherd

When catarrh once fastens itself upon the system it becomes an obstinate disease to eradicate

A systematic remedy - one that reaches every internal organ of the body - is an absolute necessity. Peruna is just such a remedy. It searches out the cause of the disease, healing and strengthening the muscous membranes, and thus giving Nature an opportunity to perfom her part of the restorative process.

One of the many hospitals which have found Peruna of value in treating old and obstinate cases of catarrh is the Hospital St. John, who write, as follows:

"We are happy to tell you that your Peruna has given us satisfaction. Three patients have tried it, one 68 years old, Renoui Dupis, afflicted with catarrh, is much relieved, more than he has been for a number of years.

"A young girl, 15 years old, had an obstinate cough, which half a bottle of Peruna caused to disappear.

"As to myself, two bottles have convinced be that Peruna is mangificent as a tonic.

"Before the treatment I could not walk for a quarter of an hour without experiencing much fatigue. How I can walk a mile easily.

"Through these three cases we desire to make known to the public the efficiency of your remedy."

Hospital St. John, of St. Johns, Province of Quebec. A later letter received from the same institution reads as follows :

Three weeks ago I-wrote to tèll you how satisfactory , we found Peruna. We recommend it highly for colds, coughs, catarrh and neuralgia.

"I have used it myself as a tonto with the best results, taken as directed, a teaspoonful every half hour."

Mrs. Etta Booker, Dundurn, Bask., N. W. T., Canada, writes :

"I suffered with pelvio catarrh until I wrote to Dr. Hartman, and after taking treatment as he advised, I can say I am now cured of this most trying affliction, for which I am truly thankful. I think Peruna the best medioine for catarrh. I never felt better In my life than I do at present."

Peruna not only promptly relieves coughs and colds in their first stages, but 1b equally prompt and efficient for catarrhal diseases in the chronic stage.

Of course, it is only reasonable to suppose that a great deal less medicine will be necessary to cute a slight attach of catarrh than would be required to relieve the ailment after it had been allowed to become chronic.

For special directions everyone should read "THE ILLS OF LIFE," a copy of which surrounds each bottle. Peruna is for sale by all chemists and druggists.

The following wholesale druggist will supply retail trade in Cairo and Alexandria, Egypt.

OBSERVATIONS BY THE SURVEY DEPARTMENT.

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Arabic and Oriental Types Supplied

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The typewriter par excellence.

Illustrated Catalogue on application.

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Alexandria and Cairo.